Sunday, February 22, 2015

on the night train through the Czech Republic


Here we were on the night train through the Bavarian countryside enroute to Prague.  

Not far from Budejovice is the town of Krumlov.  Situated on the Vltava River, with a population of about 14,600 inhabitants, Krumlov was one of the highlights of our trip through this region.  It has a magnificent castle by the same name that sits atop a hill and dates back to the year 1240 and is still in extraordinary condition.  In 1992, the town was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.  Like something straight out of a fairy tale, a small canal runs between red-tiled roofed homes in Krumlov.   It is a perfect example of a wealthy medieval city, complete with cobblestone streets of baroque buildings, housing cafes, and bars; and of course, its spectacular Castle, or State Castle, the second largest in the Czech Republic.  The train station is a good indication that little has changed in this town since the 18th century.  Yet Krumlov is still a charming town, very popular among tourists who outnumber the locals in the summer.  

Needless to say, we loved Krumlov!

Excerpt from Rick Steves' book.


Monday, February 16, 2015

Snap Krackle 'n Pop!: On the streets of Prague

Snap Krackle 'n Pop!: On the streets of Prague: Once out of the underground and on the streets of Prague, we were immediately engrossed in and thoroughly fascinated by the city...

On the streets of Prague


Once out of the underground and on the streets of Prague, we were immediately engrossed in and thoroughly fascinated by the city sights.  We visited the Old Town Square located between Wenceslas Square and the Charles Bridge, where we took in the huge Astronomical Clock, the third-oldest still-working clock in the world.   We also studied the statue of Jan Hus, the religious reformer who was burnt at the stake for his religious beliefs.  Twenty-seven crosses mark the pavement in honor of martyrs that were beheaded here. 


From the square, we crossed over on the Charles Bridge to the artsy part of the city then climbed the steps leading up to the Palace.  However, by the time we arrived at the Palace it was closing time and we had no choice but to appreciate its magnificence from the outside.  From up and in front of the Palace gate, we took in the spectacular panorama of the city below.   And once back down and past the artsy section, we ventured into the winding streets of the Old Town, where we explored the nearby church of St. Martin in the Wall.   This beautiful and oldest church built in 1178 was a treat to us, as was St. Francis of Assisi where I found a little respite.

St. Martin in the Wall is an ancient, beautifully preserved church, set among the winding back streets and quaint buildings and close to Wenceslas Square.   The farthest into the church that I was able to get  was the entrance.  Before I could get past the vestibule, I was being asked to buy tickets for a concert taking place that evening— the Chamber Ensemble Musica Praga from the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra was offering music by Mozart, Vivaldi, and Pachelbel, among other famous composers.   It was either buy tickets for the concert, or exit the church quietly. 

Because of time constraints, I passed on the concert.  Nonetheless, I was grateful to at least walk within the entryway of the sacred church and say a quick prayer, while Crissy waited outside on a bench across the church.  Smart girl, that Crissy!

After doing as much sightseeing as the time allowed, we returned to the hotel. 

The next day we were back in the Old Town.  We sauntered into a small café in the art district, where we each ordered a pint of icy-cold Pilsner and shared a hearty sandwich.  The young proprietors of the place delighted in playing pop music for our enjoyment from a laptop connected to a set of small speakers.  Crissy and I appreciated the young men’s efforts to make us feel at home and reciprocated with warm smiles.

from     We finally emerged from the establishment, half-giggly from the pints of delicious Pilsner, feeling no pain whatsoever from all the sightseeing, as we headed to the nearest metro station, and got lost in the dense crowd of weary rush-hour commuters.  

     

Millions of people from all over the world travel to Prague every year, losing themselves in this magical city of bridges, cathedrals, gold-tipped towers, and church domes.   Founded in the later 9th century, Prague soon became the seat of many a Bohemian king.  A popular travel destination that’s been referred to by many as one of Europe’s most charming and beautiful cities, it remains almost undamaged by wars and Communism, and retains a wonderful mixture of cobbled walkways, enclosed and walled courtyards, and countless church spires, all in the shadow of the majestic 9th century Castle that looks eastwardly and sets behind it.   Independent travelers, thirsty for adventure are drawn to it.  A modern vibrant energy infuses the air with music, art, and special events.  Such is the vibe of this gem of a city. 

On the third day, we were back in the center of town to tour the Castle before anything else, then squeeze in a visit to Saint Wenceslas and its local winery.  The restored winery is located in the central part of the grounds, between the buttress wall of the Old Castle stairs and the upper scenic ridgeway.   Legend has it, that it’s the oldest vineyard in all of Bohemia.   It’s reputed that this ‘divine’ vineyard was cultivated by the patron saint himself, opening its doors to visitors to Prague Castle, upon marking its 1,100th anniversary.  The area is exceptional in that it’s well positioned in the center of the city, and preserved in its original, unaltered appearance.  And rightly so, very important for us to visit!

After enjoying a glass of wine each and sharing a cheese platter, we readied to return to our hotel.
This time, however, instead of taking the metro, we opted to walk.   And what a walk it was!   Crissy suggested we foot the entire distance back to the Andel—it was quite the walk and extremely exhilarating at that.   In my book, it was just what the doctor ordered!



























Thursday, February 5, 2015

Madrid, the beautiful and stately motherland.....


When we landed in the motherland, I was at once impressed with Madrid’s pristine and modern Terminal 1 at the Barajas Airport.   The fifth in Europe and 11th in the world, more than 52 million people passed through this hub in 2007.   It is the world’s largest airport in terms of area covered by the terminal buildings—over 11 million square feet, in fact.  All of the signs are visible and easy to follow here.   After admiring some of the interesting murals on display, we were anxious to get to our hotel.  As for the metro, having aced the one in Brussels, Madrid’s was a piece of cake considering that both of us spoke fluent Spanish.
Another view of La Gran Via

In no time, the we had arrived at our hotel. 
With Cristina's acute sense of direction and map-reading skills, we had no problem finding the hotel.   El Gran Tripp is conveniently located just steps from La Gran Via metro stop, on the famously ornate and upscale boulevard by the same name.  The hotel was perfect – clean, modern, and affordable. 
 “Finally, it is happen to me!”  The moment we got in and I got a good look at our room, I broke out in song to the lyrics of Cece Peniston’s “Finally”.
“Mom, you are CRAZY!”
Ignoring my daughter, I went on singing, as I scoped out our chic and roomy accommodations.  
“Finally!   A place to lay our weary heads!   But not before taking a nice, warm shower.   Ah, what a beautiful thing!  To be able to shower and nap after two days of travel!  We’re finally home, Crissy.  Well of course, not home, home, but somewhere we can call home, if only for a few days.”  
My tendency to ramble was a telltale sign of the fatigue.   While Cristina, my polar opposite, speaks only when absolutely necessary.
“Mom, you are too much.  I am convinced that you can talk forever.”
Fuente de Cibeles
Beautiful buildings abound in Madrid
Madrid is a city bustling with life and bursting with seemingly content people—a style of life so palpable one can almost stretch out their hand and touch it.   I felt at home immediately, and at once welcomed and relished the way everyone merrily went about life—so different from what we’d experienced in Brussels, or even back in New York.   Madrileños seemed to be out and about everywhere, sitting on street and park benches just shooting the breeze, or at the cafés and taperias;   but always savoring the precious life around them.  I wondered if they had always been this way.  It was only in 1975 when Generalisimo Franco died and Spain transitioned into a democracy. 
Madrid at night
Puerta de Alcala

the city is even more beautiful at night!

As in other European cities, street crossings are equipped with mechanical sounds that emulate the chirping of birds, indicating that it’s safe to cross (presumably for the hearing-impaired).  This had a soothing and calming effect on me.   Paradoxically, while at once I felt part of this groove, I also had the feeling of being in an alien world.   There was definitely a different vibe here – invigorating, yet at the same time mind-numbingly relaxing.  For some reason, I couldn’t remember ever having experienced this unique laid-back attitude in New York City—maybe because this lifestyle did not exist in the Big Apple.
The large number of Madrileños sitting and sharing pleasant conversation 'al aire libre' as they indulged in hot chocolate and assorted sweet rolls and/or ham and eggs, struck us.   Some, even drinking wine that early in the morning.   Here, time seemed to stand still.   And I had distinct feelings of déjà vu, as if watching a silent movie playing right before my eyes, while at the same time feeling like we were characters acting out our respective roles in the movie.
As we waited for breakfast, I skimmed my book: “La Gran Via, one of the city's most important shopping areas, with a large number of hotels and large movie theaters, is also noted for the grand architecture prevalent among many of its buildings.  Nowadays most of the theaters are being replaced by shopping malls.  “Spanish Broadway” is considered a showcase of early 20th century architecture, with patterns ranging from the Vienna Cessesion, Plateresque, and Neo-Mudejar, to Art Deco.” 
Needless to say, I was in my glory.
in front of one of many tapas bars..
we passed this beautiful church while touring at night

my new Spanish friend...

After touring the city, we decided on tapas for dinner.   Our quest for tapas took us past the area where the 'ladies of the night' were conducting their business. 
“It’s heartbreaking to see such young girls engaging in that trade.  That girl can’t be more than sixteen,” I observed.  “And she’s being shoved around by her pimp.”
Being the mother of two girls, I couldn’t help feel empathy for the pretty young girl. 
Not long after, a policeman arrived at the scene and both the pimp and the girl disappeared down an alley.  This particular event was upsetting to me, who tends to feel everyone’s pain, particularly in situations where I am hopeless to act.  It put somewhat of a damper on our otherwise first day in el Foro, as some Madrileños refer to their city. 
Not far from El Prado Museum, the part of town we were in was busy and bustling with nightlife.   And one couldn't help but be captivated by it all.   The taperia was about to close for the night, but we managed to sneak in, in the nick of time.  After securing a table in a cozy corner of the establishment, I got up to place our order at the counter: jamón Serrano, croquetas, and empanadillas among other savory delectables, accompanied by a tall glass of ice-cold sweet Mahou beer.  I had never tasted anything as mouthwatering, as sweet, and as delicious as Mahou clara—a refreshing picker-upper made with equal parts beer and Sprite or lemon soda, and served in a cana glass.  The Spanish version of a shandy, these refreshing sweet drinks are more popular in Western Europe than in other parts of the world.   After the episode we had witnessed with the young prostitute and her pimp, I welcomed and relished my choice of sedative. Like tapas, Mahou beer is distinctively Spanish.   And I could not get enough of the icy cold, sweet concoction.
“I am not a beer drinker, but from my first taste of this stuff, I am definitely hooked,” I confided to Cristina.  She could only laugh—I tend to dramatize just about everything. 
La Gran Via
We could have stayed in Madrid for the major part of the trip, but there was still so much to do and see to limit themselves to just one city.   So immediately after breakfast, on the third day we walked the entire distance from the hotel, to a car rental on the far end of La Gran Via where we lucked out with a brand new Mercedes/Benz for the price of a regular car.  
Plaza de Espana
The next day we were off to tour El Escorial, the King Philip's summer palace and El Convento Las Descalzas Reales.  

Check back for our adventure at El Escorial.

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El Metropolis Building
The Westin Palace